‘Salad slinger’ Charles Williams knows how Aucklanders like to eat

Nocturnalists are spirited members of Auckland’s nighttime scene, and in this series they take us on a tour of their favourite spots in the city after 5pm. In the final instalment of season two, we talk to longtime hospo guy Charles Williams.

Photos by Sophie Miya-Smith shot on location at Swashbucklers and ASB Waterfront Theatre.

Charles Williams knows Auckland’s hospitality scene better than most. In the mid-2010s he opened Grafton sandwich shop Ceremony. Next, he and his family established Williams Eatery – an all-day spot in Wynyard Quarter which quickly became one of the city’s most beloved. In 2024, they launched Bowler in the same space Williams Eatery once occupied. Like its predecessor, Bowler – which specialises in salad bowls and smoothies – is a family affair. Charles runs it alongside his partner Jess, brother Patrick, their parents, and business partner Shenine. Together they’ve learned volumes about Auckland and its people. With locations in Wynyard Quarter and Victoria Street, Charles has had a front row seat to the energetic pace of the city. What has he learned? And where does he go to work out, unwind and celebrate? He sat down with Emma Gleason to share his after-dark insights.

The CBD has always been a focus for you. Why have those locations worked so well for Bowler?

The Victoria Street location is quite unique because it’s here [in Les Mills], so we’re open from 6.30am to 8.30pm. That’s helped us define our offering. We spent a bit of time figuring out “what do these people want to eat and what do we eat?”, because we are all active and go to the gym ourselves. We also looked at what was working overseas, and we thought there was a little bit of a gap in the market. Bowler launched in 2024. We already had the cafe [Williams Eatery] down in Wynyard Quarter and we just converted that because [Bowler] was doing so well. We just love it. It’s really enjoyable selling this type of food.

Obviously, you get the gym crowd here at Les Mills, but what about corporates?

Yeah, we get lots of office workers at both stores. And Uber Eats is crazy, especially in the evening, with people who live alone and can’t be bothered cooking. Plus, because we have an app, a lot of gym-goers can preorder something for dinner.

That’s genius.

We do a lot of catering as well. That’s another massive component of our business.

You’re also quite well-placed for commuters, because Bowler is next to some major CBD transport links.

Yeah for sure. I feel like there’s room for at least one more Bowler, perhaps on the other side of Queen Street or down by Britomart… especially with the City Rail Link opening soon.

What have you learned about Aucklanders’ dining habits from Bowler?

Just through chatting to our customers, we get a snapshot of how people are feeling and how they dine. We also get a lot of data. So many people are budget-conscious, but also way more conscious about what they put into their bodies. Value and convenience are number one.

Life must be pretty busy for you, between parenting and working – how would you spend a dream night out in Auckland city these days? Run me through the whole itinerary.

I’d start with a walk along the waterfront, then get drinks at Caretaker. They genuinely just take care of you and make the best margarita in the city. Then I’d head to Depot for oysters, steak and pork hock. It’s an institution for good reason: unpretentious, delicious, quintessentially Kiwi. Then a nice spot of pool at Afterlife Billiards.

What about if you’ve got someone to impress, where would you take them?

Probably up to Queens Rooftop for some starters, cocktails and that view. And then go down to Kemuri Hi-Fi. They’ve got nice food, a great soundtrack and everyone’s so relaxed and just into listening to good music.

Do you have a go-to cocktail?

I love a margarita. A really salty one.

Where would you go for a great red wine?

No.7 on Pitt Street. Jack Young has built a genuinely great little spot and always has interesting wines on rotation. Best paired with crisps and taramasalata. I’m looking forward to seeing his restaurant expansion come together over the next few months.

OK, let’s talk food now. What’s your favourite cheap and cheerful spot for dinner in the city?

Thai E-Sarn on Hobson Street. Again, it’s highly rated and for good reason. I get the nam tok beef salad with extra chilli and the deep-fried snapper. It’s the kind of place that makes you wonder why you ever bother with anywhere else. It would be great to see them open up another one out west one day!

Best central late-night feed?

Ichiban on Albert Street. I’ve been going there for over 15 years. I always get the spicy ramen. It’s one of those spots where a lot of good memories have been made. Fits of laughter are customary.

Now, what’s your favourite place to take the kids for dinner in Auckland city?

Fed Deli. [My partner] Jess and I love to pig out there. We get toasted chicken sandos with cheese and an extra-large poutine. The booths are perfect for being in your own little world with the family. It’s relaxed enough that you’re not stressed about a four-year-old making noise. Oh, and the regular ice water top-ups are always a treat.

I hear you’re also a fan of Swashbucklers?

It’s just so good. They’re not trying to be anything other than what they are… There are lots of fun quirks, like the big stuffed bear, and it’s kind of a blue-collar bar. Everyone goes there. And again, it’s quintessentially Kiwi: fish and chips, fried oysters, cold handles of Speights. After we opened Williams in 2018, we would always go there for staff things, or for catching up with people, or we’d get friends to meet us there – for any occasion really, it could be a quick beer or a longer session.

You must have seen Wynyard Quarter change quite a lot since 2018?

It’s really busy now… Our parents moved down there. They live above Bowler.

Wow. What’s that like?

They love it. They’re in close proximity to all their neighbours and they see them all the time. Dad goes to the gym [at Les Mills] and Mum does pilates. They have a way more social and more active lifestyle. They’ve probably added five or 10 years to their lifespan… with inner-city living in an apartment, you can just roll out of bed, grab a coffee, go to the theatre, catch a bus. Pretty much everyone I know who lives down there loves it. A lot of them are Mum and Dad’s age and they love to go to the local restaurants. It’s great having the theatre there and so many different events – especially in the spring and summertime down at Silo Park. And Sail GP was epic.

It’s a pretty dreamy place to live.

There’s a reason why One NZ, Amazon and Microsoft are all down there. It’s a really vibrant business hub as well.

And it’s beautiful at night.

Yeah, the new Waka Moana [public artwork] on Daldy Street is so beautiful. It’s a really great part of town.

The ASB Waterfront Theatre is really gorgeous around there at night too, with all its colourful lights. Do you ever go there?

Yeah. I’ve been there a couple of times. I think it’s a really understated theatre… I feel like a lot of people my age or younger don’t even know how great it is. It’s really cool. They’re doing Macbeth this year.

What about other theatres around Auckland?

I like The Civic. I just love the scale of it… I went to see Tom Scott play there on a dads’ night out with some mates. Ended up at Chancery afterwards, drinking cold beer and eating karaage chicken like it was 2008. Nothing was planned, it just rolled that way. Those are the best ones.

What’s your dream gig in the city? Or one that’s coming up that you want to see?

Flying Lotus played Powerstation recently – my favourite venue. He’s got a big, unique sound, the kind of thing you can just nod your head to without thinking too hard. J Cole in December will be a highlight. I always seem to lean towards him at the gym or on a run, so seeing him live is going to be something. Babysitters are already being lined up.

I hear you’re into comedy too? Was the Comedy Fest on your radar?

Yes, I was stoked to see Dai Henwood back in this year’s lineup. He’s always funny, and it was pretty cool to see him hosting the gala. Chris Parker was part of it too of course, he’s always jazzed up and ready to entertain. A true gentleman.

You’re also quite a health-conscious, fit person. Where do you like to work out at the end of the day?

Definitely here [at Les Mills], it’s open until 10pm. But if you’re gonna go for a run, running around the boardwalk is awesome, it’s all lit up. Running from the Harbour Bridge and through Wynyard Quarter, you can run all the way down Quay Street to the port and back. That’s a pretty amazing downtown city run.

And if you were at Les Mills, what workout would you be doing?

I would do one of their classes, like Ceremony or Conquer. It’s a quick one as well, 45 minutes in and out, because I definitely want to have a sauna after… the sauna just makes me get off my phone, think and breathe.

What about a massage, where would you go for that?

Soong Boutique Thai Massage on Customs Street. Just put me in some light pain for an hour and focus on the legs – I am still trying to play club footy, so the body needs the work. Absolute dream when you get it right.

How else do you wind down at the end of the day? If you’re finished up with work and need to chill out for a bit before going home, where would you go?

We go down to Victoria Park, because it’s between both stores. I take my shoes off, walk around, kick a ball around. Especially if I’ve got [my son]; we go to the playground there. Or we go watch the skateboarders… Victoria Park’s pretty on the money. It’s pretty special.

Where would you go to watch the sunset?

Down by the water, down by the Harbour Bridge, the deck at Swashies. That whole waterfront area between Wynyard Quarter and the Harbour Bridge, it’s just great.

OK, last question – what do you love about Auckland after dark?

A lot of people feel like nothing’s happening, but there are a lot of places that are doing stuff, and there is quite a good variety. You just need to see what’s behind the curtain, look into it a bit more. I think the City Rail Link is really exciting, especially for live music, comedy and restaurants. And being part of that industry and seeing how hard it’s been, especially for the operators that are downtown, I think it brings a lot of hope… And there are people like Tom Scott and Chlöe Swarbrick helping promote getting the St James going, comedians are still doing their thing, and some really great restaurants that have been around forever are still delivering really great food and service. I think the feeling of “what’s coming next?” is exciting.