Emma Lewisham luxury skincare brand gets Nobel scientist’s tick of approval

Emma Lewisham is packing her bags and joining the great Kiwi exodus to London.

The luxury skincare founder isn’t giving up on New Zealand, she’s jetting offshore with her family to continue expanding her brand.

“My family and I are going to spend some time up in the UK from next month for a few years to really help support growth in the UK, Europe and America,” she told the Herald.

“It’s about really nurturing those markets, there’s a lot to play for in those markets alone.”

It’s been a whirlwind six years since Lewisham founded her brand, known for its bright distinctive purple packaging.

The science behind her formulation is important to her – so important she recently reached out to Nobel Laureate Dr Peter Agre to discuss the science.

Agre was awarded the Nobel prize for chemistry in 2003 for his groundbreaking discovery of aquaporins, the protein channels that transport water molecules across cell membranes.

An admirer of Agre’s work, Lewisham contacted him and spoke to him about her formulations.

That conversation led to her building a relationship with Agre and his family and visiting him in the US.

“He invited me to meet with him in Baltimore where he lives with his wife Mary and see his Nobel Prize at Johns Hopkins University, which was incredible and learn about his career.”

He has now officially recognised the Lewisham approach to scientific formulation, a world first in skincare.

“He has recognised our work in innovation and science and also our sustainable leadership in the beauty industry,” she says.

Agre says he’s often contacted by strangers asking for various endorsements or donations.

“In contrast, receiving a handwritten note from Emma Lewisham describing her New Zealand-based company and their policies for sustainability and environmental protection while providing high-quality products for evidence-based, scientifically-directed skin care was an entirely different experience and raised my curiosity,” he said in a statement through a spokesperson.

“I recognise Emma Lewisham’s genuine commitment to scientific thinking and dedication to sustainable practices. I am impressed by the way Emma Lewisham approaches their work; there is a meaningfulness surrounding the brand and genuineness in their commitment to science and to improving the industry they operate in.”

Lewisham emphasises this is not a paid endorsement of her products, which makes it even more meaningful.

“When you have someone of that credibility and someone that you can’t buy look at what you’ve created in these products and poured blood, sweat and tears and really believe in the science. The rigour to have someone of his credentials at merit alone say, look, I believe in what you’ve done and you’ve done some incredible work here is incredibly meaningful.”

She hopes it will help continue to boost the brand’s popularity.

The products are stocked in Mecca in New Zealand and Australia, a store that is difficult to gain entry into.

She’s spent a lot of time in stores, working with staff members, handing out samples to increase brand awareness.

The cost-of-living crisis means the New Zealand market is tough, particularly for luxury brands.

“We have actually seen online growth, double-digit growth year on year in New Zealand. I think because we have built a really loved brand with customers that are really loyal to the brand that they’ve stuck with us.”

But she says the New Zealand market is hard.

“I don’t think it’s us just resting on our laurels. We’re doing more than ever to engage the customer, having events in public to see them that I’m personally getting to, I’m getting out to the stores. We are working hard for it.”

Fighting for a place in the US market is also tough.

The biggest issue there is tariffs.

“We’ve managed the supply chain challenges really well with having experienced staff that know what needs to be managed and managing it.

“The tariffs now are something that are taking effect on the business and we are absorbing to stay competitive in the market and we just have to hold on that and look for other ways to keep things competitive while they’re in place.”

So while the company will continue to focus on the New Zealand and Australian markets, growth is strong in the UK and Europe and she expects it to make up half the market in the next few years.

Basing herself in London means Lewisham can be at those in-store events and continue to sell a slice of Kiwi innovation to the rest of the world.

Katie Bradford is a Senior Correspondent at the Herald. She has been a broadcast journalist for over 20 years and was based in the press gallery for 10 years. She specialises in politics, business and Auckland issues.