ROKI Collection Queenstown opens as luxury hotel and dining destination

Fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy once declared “luxury is in each detail”, and the style icon would surely have approved of ROKI Collection Queenstown: a brand-new world-class luxury hotel on the outskirts of town, which promises a sanctuary of calm and connection with nature (the apt Māori name translates as “tranquil”).

First impressions are key, and do not disappoint: our airport transfers are in the Roki “house car”: a magnificent Rolls Royce Cullinan with a surprisingly delightful mandarin interior. Driver Andy describes its handling as “the softest pillow you’ve ever lain on - with a 600 horsepower engine”, while the ride in the back is nothing short of heaven (the winking ceiling with the odd shooting star aids the notion).

Upon arrival, we’re greeted warmly by staff bearing glasses of the house Champagne (from Ruinart, the world’s first Champagne house), which we sip by the fireplace in the Living Room, which boasts views through The Terrace restaurant to Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables beyond. It’s a space of understated sophistication, painstakingly curated (as is everything in ROKI) by internationally acclaimed interior designer Virginia Fisher. It’s hard to believe we’re walking distance from town; we truly feel we’re cocooned in an exclusive but remote luxury lodge.

ROKI boasts a range of accommodation options: at the top is the palatial four-bedroom ROKI Suite, complete with a rooftop plunge pool and sauna, in-suite chef and butler; and the three-bedroom Brunswick Suite with expansive terraces, outdoor fireplace and spa, butler service and its own lift. Both these suites can be combined for the seven-bedroom Grand ROKI suite experience.

We’re delighted with our Deluxe Suite: more than 60sq m of sumptuousness with an integrated lounge making the most of those magnificent views, a cosy gas fireplace, a walk-in wardrobe with makeup station, and a large bathroom, which holds a few of my favourite things (a bath with a view, rainfall shower, Sans Ceuticals products, Dyson hairdryer, fluffy robes and slippers). The minibar is comprehensive (gourmet snacks and non-alcoholic drinks are included, and there’s a Nespresso machine), Wi-Fi is fast and free, and because we’d rather look at the scenery than the TV, we love that it’s hidden behind a sliding artwork. It’s a peaceful, indulgent oasis that is a welcome respite from the frantic few weeks we’ve both had, and we appreciate thoughtful extras provided, such as stylish sunhats and a tote bag for daily excursions.

After pre-dinner drinks and (included in the tariff) canapes in the intimate Library Bar, we dine at Essence – as with The Terrace, the public are welcomed alongside guests – and can’t go past the 10-course tasting menu: less dinner, more a gastronomic journey. Director of Culinary Paul Froggatt (winner of Luxury Lodge Chef of the Year for his time at Kauri Cliffs, and before that, executive chef at iconic Huka Lodge for almost a decade) has put together an outstanding selection of dishes, full of surprises. My very first bite: a glossy cherry that reveals a sublime chicken parfait filling – a feat akin to a magic trick.

Paul joins us to chat about our favourite courses (for me, it’s the simple-sounding but delightfully complex broken rice with caviar and egg yolk); his enthusiasm for the local fishing and foraging is evident in both his conversation and his creations. Our tastebuds are taken from mushrooms to langoustine, hapuka to venison – each dish perfectly complemented by exquisite tableware that provides a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. The final course, aptly named The Finale, is a delight, served with a flourish amid a pop-up scene of native forest. We leave with sated appetites, wide smiles and a copy of the menu we’ve just enjoyed, including the expertly-matched wines.

After a blissful sleep and a gourmet à la carte breakfast in Essence (again, included in the tariff), I’m ready for more pampering – and what is a luxury getaway without a spa experience? In-house guests have complimentary and exclusive access to ROKI Pure’s pool, jacuzzi, ice bath and sauna (disappointingly, we can’t partake because of recent surgeries) and the 24-hour gym (no partaking there either – we’re on holiday after all!). But I do indulge in a ROKI Pure Ritual with spa manager Lorene: a tension-melting full-body massage (she found knots I didn’t even know I had) followed by an enriching facial. When I finally float out of ROKI Pure more than two hours later, I feel relaxed, replenished and restored.

A delicious fireside lunch on The Terrace, then it’s off to Arrowtown to potter around the shops before heading back for another round of cocktails and canapes in the Library Bar. We return to The Terrace for dinner: no hardship to eat there twice in one day given its small but perfectly formed menu, although guests also have complimentary access to the house car in the evenings for drop-offs at local restaurants.

On our final day, ROKI staff arranged for us a Heliworks helicopter experience. Over two unforgettable hours, we soar over Milford Sound’s dramatic cliffs, step out into soft, untouched snow on a glacier with views that stretch across Fiordland and the Southern Lakes, and fly deep into the Earnslaw Burn, where cascading waterfalls tumble down moss-covered cliffs. We also land in Rees Valley, where ROKI has some exciting plans for upcoming wilderness retreats. It’s a reminder that, for all the attractions the world has to offer, it’s hard to beat the majestic landscapes right here at home. ROKI also arranges for us to lunch at Ayrburn, a food and wine playground tucked in the folds of the Southern Alps that provides a memorable conclusion to our time in the south.

The ROKI Queenstown experience is both impressive and flawless, but the greatest asset of all is undeniably the staff. Hand-assembled from around the globe, each member is at the top of their field and looks after us with grace and a great sense of humour: the icing on a decadent cake.

This latest offering to New Zealand’s adventure capital is a welcome one, aimed at overseas visitors and well-heeled Kiwis (though do remember the dining experience is open to all). I’m reminded of the Gucci family motto: quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten – and our memories of ROKI Queenstown will last a lifetime.

Details

ROKI Collection: Queenstown

2 Brunswick Street, Queenstown 9300

Suite rates: From $2800 per night, bed and breakfast (opening offers were available at the time of writing).

New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of ROKI Queenstown.