Jesse Mulligan: What It’s Really Like To Be A Restaurant Reviewer In Auckland

In his fortnightly foodie advice column, Viva’s resident dining-out editor shares his recommendations and insider advice. This week, how the reviewing process works, where to go for a special Sunday lunch, and how much you should pay for steak at a restaurant.

The ins and outs of restaurant reviews

Dear Jesse

I saw someone on social media criticising your Top 50 list for (among other things) flattering the restaurants with big advertising budgets. Is there any influence from advertisers on the places you review or how you review them?

Luca

Hi Luca

Be suspicious of anything you read on social media where, as you’ll know, there is a shortage of fact-checking, subediting and editorial oversight. One way to get cut-through on those forums is by sounding as outraged as possible, so it’s not surprising a post like the one you mention rose to the top of the algorithmic dung pile.

Not to say that your own very polite question isn’t legitimate. I get asked this sort of thing all the time so, given it’s my first column of the year, I’d love to share our kaupapa for Viva’s restaurant reviews and related content.

I visit anonymously and without warning. I choose the restaurants myself, sometimes with suggestions from the wider team. I pay the bill myself and only mention I’m reviewing after the transaction has been accepted (sometimes, shamefully, on the third credit card I try).

Being a sometime TV guy whose face is plastered on the Viva cover at least once a year, I do get recognised at least half the time when I wander into a restaurant. But by then it is too late for them to change the menu, the room, the winelist, the chef, the decor, the staff training or the music. They can at best hang around the table a lot and refuse to let their junior staff near me, though this is unlikely to work in their favour.

I’m paid by Viva, not the restaurants (sorry to be gauche and talk money but it’s important that you know). I’ve never had a request by anyone at the Herald to tone things down, or perhaps be more positive towards a potential advertiser. What you read is 100% what I write, minus a few typos or clunky sentences the brilliant editorial team help smooth out for me.

So when you read one of my reviews, you’ll know it’s an honest opinion from somebody who’s been eating at and writing about Auckland restaurants for 15 years. If somewhere is so bad that I feel no good can be done by writing about it, I will (once every couple of years) do what I think is the kind thing and leave them alone. Otherwise, if I eat it, you’ll hear about it.

The social media model is a little different. You have to make money somehow so posting can be a mix of paid-for content (hopefully signposted) and honest appraisals. It works for everyone, including followers who don’t mind having to work out which is which. For now, I find it simpler not to take money from the people I may one day have to critique, but I totally understand and respect the business model of those who do.

First-world problems

Hi Jesse

We’re planning a significant family birthday celebration in February. We would like somewhere special but here’s the fully first-world dilemma. The birthday falls on a Sunday (all adults and only 5-6) and lunch is preferred, however, so many top restaurants in Auckland do not offer a Sunday lunch service. Understandably, our wonderful hospo people need rest days.

Any suggestions or inspiration would be welcome – for context, if Cibo was open I’d probably have booked it.

Loving your reviews.

Many thanks

Caro

Hi Caro and Happy New Year to you.

I think your two strongest bets are Jacuzzi (the old SPQR and a great place to get dressed up for) and Soul (service right up there with Cibo, huge menu of appetising dishes and what a location). Nobody ever regretted a Sunday lunch at Prego and what about Takapuna Beach Cafe? It’s licensed, in a commanding location though (sorry) you’ll have to wait until my review this Wednesday to find out what I really thought of it.

Beyond that, if you haven’t visited it too many times already, Amano is fantastic. Gosh, there are so many Caro! I haven’t even mentioned Hello Beasty or Azabu or …

A meaty question

Jesse how much should I pay for a steak?

Dan

Hi Dan, the answer is how much are you willing to pay for a steak? Everyone makes a big fuss over butter, but the price of meat (and beef in particular) has increased at an almost comical rate over the past few years.

Don’t blame the restaurateurs, they’re holding on as best they can. Some have stopped offering beef completely (Ada last time I ate there, though I see their brand new menu has Scotch back on at $49), while others feel an obligation to put it on the menu at a realistic price, even if it costs them to do so (“if everyone ordered steak we’d go out of business” one restaurant manager remarked recently).

The Scotch fillet at Andiamo probably reflects what a steak should be priced at – theirs is $65! But most chefs aren’t willing to bite that particular bullet. The Engine Room’s famous steak frites is $49, and across the road at the new Sfera they’re coming in at $56. Bistro Saine splits the difference at $52. At the end of the day Dan, it’s going to cost you at least an Apirana Ngata no matter where you go, so you should choose somewhere they’re going to cook it properly (I can’t speak for the others but The Engine Room and Bistro Saine are unimpeachable).

Previously recommended by Jesse Mulligan

What you’ve asked, and what he’s shared.

‘I’d take the recommendation of my plumber over a Michelin inspector’. What Jesse really thinks about the Michelin Guide coming to New Zealand.

Where To Go For Date Night Dinner, Authentic Peking Duck, & Where To Eat In Blenheim. Jesse helps a reader plan date night. Should they go fine and fancy or fun and noisy?

Where To Get The Best Sunday Roast In Auckland. Plus, where to take the family for a special occasion.

The Best Auckland Restaurants For Peace & Quiet. Plus, where to take a child with food allergies.