Friends of climbers missing on Aoraki Mt Cook praying for Christmas miracle

Wednesday, 4 December 2024

A colleague of one of the three climbers missing on Aoraki Mt Cook says the mountain has a global reputation for catching out the most experienced climbers but he’s still hoping for a miracle.

On Tuesday afternoon police confirmed Kurt Blair, 56, and Carlos Romero, 50, both from the United States, and a Canadian national were missing after they failed to rendezvous with a pick-up off the mountain on Monday morning.

The trio flew into Plateau Hut at 3.30pm on Saturday 30 November and planned to summit Aoraki Mt Cook via Zurbriggen Ridge.

They were due to meet their flight out at 8.30am two days later but did not arrive and were subsequently reported overdue.

An initial search involving Department of Conservation (DOC) Search and Rescue Team, a helicopter and police uncovered climbing related items believed to belong to the men.

However, poor weather conditions have hampered the search which was unable to proceed on Tuesday.

Police said on Wednesday they had grave concerns for the men but remained hopeful of being able to resume the search when the weather cleared.

Aoraki Area Commander Inspector Vicki Walker said the terrain on the mountain was difficult to navigate and the team would continue to assess the weather conditions.

“However at this stage it remains unlikely searching will be able to continue before tomorrow.”

On Wednesday morning California based SWS Mountain Guides paid tribute to Carlos (Kique) Romero.

“Kique, a beloved guide, educator and mentor was with two other climbers when their group encountered severe conditions.”

The guiding company said search teams had faced challenges due to extreme weather and the situation “remains grim”.

“Kique is widely respected for his skills as a guide, and enthusiasm for climbing,” the tribute said.

It said Romero was an integral part of their company.

“Our hearts are with the climbers families, friends and the climbing community as we await further updates. We continue to hope for clarity and hold Kique close in our thoughts.”

Both Romero and Blair are accredited guides.

Romero previously led expeditions to Japan, Venezuela, Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina.

Born in Venezuela Romero began his climbing career in the Andes before studying in Switzerland and California. He worked for 15 years as a programme manager at Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory.

Blair’s San Juan Mountain Guide colleague Nate Disser told Stuff on Wednesday that the father of two had worked for them for over a decade and was an accomplished respected climber.

Disser said Blair had climbed all over the world including in the Himalayas, Africa and Europe.

Although he wasn’t aware Blair was climbing Aoraki Mt Cook, Disser said all climbers understood how technically difficult the mountain could be.

“We do know it does catch out even the most experienced climbers.”

Disser said New Zealand authorities contacted him to see if Blair had used the same messaging systems they use when guiding but he was unable to help.

He said Blair was “highly professional, very mindful” and a thoughtful mountain guide and climber.

“He was beloved by his students and the clients that he guided and we certainly had a high degree of respect for not only his skill and acumen but also as a person,” he said.

Disser said news of Blair had already had a huge impact on the small local community he was a part of and the Suan Juan guiding family.

“We’re a tight group of individuals, guides and mountain practitioners that rely on each other and care for each other very deeply - not only in our work but in our personal lives. So it impacts on us very deeply.”

Disser said he is still hoping that a miracle will occur - although he thinks it is unlikely.

“Certainly by the information that has been provided it appears less likely by the moment. Kurt is such a dear friend and colleague and if it’s true that he’s gone, he will be forever missed.”

A tribute to Kurt Blair from the Silverton Avalanche School in the United States said it was with a “heavy heart” that they shared he was “presumed deceased” while climbing the mountain.

“We received notification from New Zealand authorities that the climbers appear to have taken a fatal fall from high upon the peak. Gear and equipment found from the party has helped SAR piece together the tragedy although remote, technical and heavily glaciated terrain coupled with deteriorating weather has prevented a recovery of the climbers.”

The tribute said gear and equipment found from the party has helped searchers piece together the “tragedy, although remote, technical and heavily glaciated terrain coupled with deteriorating weather has prevented a recovery of the climbers.”

“Kurt was a beloved fixture of the San Juan mountains who comes from a proud lineage of mountain adventurers,” the tribute said. “The Durango local pivoted from a life of personal climbing accomplishments to chasing his dream of becoming a professional mountain guide, gaining IFMGA certification in 2022.”

Anyone who shared time with Kurt in the mountains knows that his calm demeanour and positive presence ran counter to the rough edges and sharp tongues so often exemplified by the hard scrabble ranks of mountain guides, the tribute went on to say.

“He was the nicest guy you’d ever share a rope or trail or skin track with, and his humility, competence and polite nature made him a client and student favourite. For those of us who have logged significant time in the backcountry with Kurt, the loss of such a wise and steady partner is devastating.”

“Blair leaves behind a loving family, two amazing sons and a mountain community that stretches along the entire length of the 550 corridor and beyond. He is loved and will be missed. Details surrounding a celebration of life and ways to honour Kurt’s memory will be shared publicly in the coming weeks,” the tribute said.

Police said they would not release the name of the Canadian man due to family wishes.