Tairāwhiti: Where to escape the crowds this summer

Sunday, 27 October 2024

Many Kiwis head to popular hotspots like Northland and Coromandel and that generally means two things: traffic jams and crowds.

But there is a road less travelled that takes you around some of New Zealand's best hidden gems. State Highway 35 weaves around East Cape, and if you start in Gisborne and end in Ōpōtiki, you're in for one of New Zealand's best adventures. Not to mention lots of golden beaches.

Here are some of my favourite gems to discover along the way.

Matawhero Winery

Begin with a touch of luxury at Matawhero Winery in Gisborne. It was the region's first boutique winery, created by the legendary vintner Denis Irwin. Aside from an exceptional cellar door, you’ll find a series of chic cabins nestled among the vines. Spend your afternoon sipping on exquisite wines, then retreat to your deck for a nightcap under the stars.

Te Pourewa

The Cook's Cove Walkway is one of the best day walks in Tairāwhiti, it traverses farmland and native bush to the historic Cove where James Cook anchored the Endeavour in 1769. Along the 5.8-kilometre return walk, you'll find Te Pourewa (which means beacon). It's a stunning new sculpture that pays respect to Tupaia, the Tahitian navigator and priest who was aboard the Endeavour at the time.

Maunga Hikurangi

When driving around SH35, there is one dominating feature in the hinterland: Maunga Hikurangi. Standing at 1754 metres tall, it is the first place in New Zealand to see the sun rise each day.

The sacred mountain holds a special place in the hearts of Ngāti Porou, and you can join a 4WD tour through Pakihiroa Station up the side of the mountain - either for sunrise or later in the day. Your destination is nine huge pou, which stand guard at the top of the mountain.

Motu River Jet

As you head around East Cape, toward the Bay of Plenty, there's another way to get a glimpse of this region's wild side. Motu River Jet takes you into the remote Raukūmara Forest Park, where you can see some of the North Island's most untouched scenery.

Unlike the usual stomach-churning jet boat trips, this one focuses on the history and beauty of the mountains, allowing you to sit back and enjoy the view. You'll even be taken to an old mining tunnel to see a few of the local creatures who live there.

Sheldrake BnB

End your trip around East Cape with a relaxing stay at one of the region's best bed and breakfasts. Sheldrake BnB is a treehouse-like cabin, reached by a short bush walk. The cabin sits on stilts, meaning it's up in the trees - and the morning birdsong is magnificent. It's the kind of place where you'll feel a world away from the crowds of summer.

Fact file:

Getting there: Gisborne is a 6.5-hour drive from Auckland, or four hours from Rotorua. Air New Zealand has flights from Auckland and Wellington.

Staying there:

Matawhero cabins from $380 per night, including breakfast and a bottle of wine, see: matawhero.co.nz.

Sheldrake BnB from $296 per night. See: sheldrakebnb.co.nz

Playing there:

Motu River Jet from $110 per adult. See: moturiverjet.com

Maunga Hikurangi day experience from $269. See: maungahikurangi.com

The writer was hosted by Trust Tairāwhiti. See: tairawhitigisborne.co.nz