Capital Conversation: Eateries that have passed the test of time

Friday, 13 September 2024

Wellington's hospitality scene has been taking a bit of a beating, so The Post talked to some of the city's long-standing cafes and restaurants to see what keeps them going.

Fidel’s Cafe

Manager Owen Mooji says Fidel’s, which opened in 1996, is known for its bright, eclectic aesthetic and world famous milkshakes.

Mooji, who has worked at the cafe for six years, believed it was well-served basics that kept customers coming back: good coffee, good food, and good service.

“I’ve never found a place that does better coffee than the stuff that we serve here. Maybe I'm biased,” he laughed.

As well as its “signature” Eggs Benedict with homemade hash browns, the cafe’s caramel and ginger slice was a hit: with people from the Salvation Army purchasing it “religiously”, he said.

But the restaurant was feeling Wellington’s emptiness, with the cafe last week experiencing its quietest week in 25 years.

Owner Roger Young said remote working had ravaged the lunch crowd.

“TV Three, the Teachers’ Association, there's so many that used to be our bread and butter. They would be there for meetings in the morning, afternoon. None of that any more.”

Luckily Fidel’s was seen as a Wellington “institution”, Young acknowledged.

“It's always been based on really good service and wholesome food at a reasonable price, with really good Cuban coffee. And just hard work from all mystaff, myself included.”

Midnight Espresso

This well-known cafe first opened in 1989 and was taken over by its current owner, Hamish McIntyre 10 years later.

Open daily from 8am to 1am, manager Amanda McMillan said the cafe’s strength was its community. Behind the front counter, drawings, sketches, and letters from customers cover the walls.

“It’s just a cafe for people.”

With its high ceilings, and artwork by local artist Ymre adorning the walls and the bathroom’s interior, the eatery is distinctive.

Its much loved pinball machine was temporarily taken away, but was quickly brought back after customer outcry, McMillan joked.

While the surrounding Cuba St had changed, she said the cafe had stayed the same, in that it was a place for people from various shades of life to gather and enjoy.

Midnight Espresso was personalised, McMillan said, “down to the milk and cream” served in the coffee. “People feel safe here.”

KK Malaysia

The Malaysian restaurant has been at its Ghuznee St location for 25 years, says manager Angeline Tan.

Its owners, Nyuk Thow Ng and Andy Ng, continued to provide for the restaurant in their 70s, with Nyuk Thow cooking the beef rendang and chicken curry.

The restaurant was known for its distinctive hand-painted orange interior and a large painting of fruit on a blue background hanging on a back wall. It had been painted by a family friend, Tan said.

Popular with Malaysians coming into the Malaysian Embassy, building a strong relationship with customers was important, Tan said. Another happy customer was former MP Grant Robertson, who often came by for lunch when his office was around the corner.

If she had to pick a signature dish, Tan said the restaurant’s laksa was what it was well known for.

“Our secret recipe that makes our restaurant stand up from the crowd is that we offer a distinct taste of Malaysia.”

Neo Cafe & Eatery

Neo has been open for 31 years, passing into its current owner’s hands 11 years ago, says manager Elliot Doe.

It’s always been at the same location, on Willis St near the road’s intersection with Boulcott St.

Over the past 10 years, the venue had honed in on its mission and goals, Doe said, discovering that consistency was key.

The was surrounded by corporate offices, with students living in nearby village accommodation often coming to the restaurant.

The cafe consistently received good reviews, and was celiac friendly, he said. The pancakes, which changed seasonally, drew in crowds.

While the weekends were always busy, there were days where it was “a roll of the dice”.

A happy staff was also important, he said, as they would stay for longer, which made regulars feel comfortable.

Overall, his hospitality advice was that if you could offer great service, great coffee, and great food, you’d be set.

In this new series, Capital Conversation, The Post is digging even deeper into the issues holding Wellington back, while continuing to champion what’s great.