Why New Zealand beer-lovers might feel short-changed

Saturday, 18 January 2025

Pint. Beer. Two words that for aeons have quintessentially symbolised a good time, but increasingly a phrase used ambiguously in Kiwi pubs.

The origin of the pint as a unit of volume measurement spans centuries, with some articles crediting King Charles II for establishing the “imperial pint”, a standard ratio for tankards, in the 17th Century.

That royal pint measured 568ml, as close as someone without a calculator could surely get to the 568.26ml (20fl oz) that has been considered the UK norm since being standardised by the Weights and Measures Act 1824. A pint in the US, as set by the American National Standards Institute after it adopted the 231 cubic inch wine gallon as its standard gallon measure, is 473.176 ml (16 fl oz).

Way back when New Zealand milk used to be sold in pint-sized glass bottles. They held a whopping 600ml ‒ somewhat more than the 400 to 500ml you’d likely be necking at a pub these days if you ask for a pint or handle.

As the team at craft beer mag, the Pursuit of Hoppiness, points out there isn’t, and never has been, an official definition of a pint measure in New Zealand.

“Beer is sold in a ‘glass’‒ large or small ‒ or in ‘handles’, ‘jugs’ or … here I avoid the use of the term ‘pint’,” the Hoppiness’ Michael M says. “I love a pint ‒ but the ‘measure’ pint is not defined in New Zealand. It’s as much a descriptor as ‘glass’.”

Like the word “blue” in the name of the Little (Blue) Penguin, the pint, it seems, has become a long-standing but unauthenticated “thing”.

But why?

Stephen O’Brien, National Manager for Trading Standards at MBIE, explains it like this: On December 14, 1976, New Zealand adopted the metric system for all measurements used for trade transactions.

As a result, imperial measures such as “pints” and “gallons” were no longer legal measurement units for trade in New Zealand, except in limited circumstances where imported products have dual metric and imperial markings.

“Under the legislation, if you asked for a 568ml glass of beer and that was what was purported to have been supplied to you, it would be an offence if it was short…”

Given it is legal to sell beer by the glass with no reference to quantity, it is pretty much a case of buyer be aware.

“It is up to the consumer to determine whether the amount provided represents value for money and make their purchasing decisions accordingly,” O’Brien says.

The Hoppiness folk argue that glasses should, as they do in mainland Europe, show a fill or pour line that clearly indicates the advertised measure.

“In short, there is no way to compare volumes consumed and prices per measure across different venues. It’s a complete lack of transparency supported by legislation.”

Dylan Firth, from the Brewers’ Association, believes the diversity in glass sizes adds to the uniqueness of New Zealand’s beer culture.

“For the majority of bars and restaurants, serving sizes are more about what works practically, economically, and for their customer base.

“Economic factors do come into play. Rising costs ‒ whether it’s ingredients, taxes, or inflation ‒ mean venues have to make tough choices. For some, that might mean smaller glasses to keep prices reasonable, while others may choose to raise prices. It’s a balancing act to keep the doors open while ensuring customers still feel like they’re getting good value.”

Wellington’s Welsh Dragon Bar cleverly uses “pint” as a catch-all word to refer to two different serve sizes. The first is their Imperial Pint, the kind served in Wales and the rest of the UK ‒ or as manager Hannah Williams says, “a proper pint in the original meaning of the word – or 568ml”.

The second is the 425ml Kiwi Pint. “Most other bars in Wellington and throughout New Zealand will serve that, or a lower amount, as a pint … We are definitely one of the last bastions and custodians of the ‘proper pint’ in Wellington.”

While someone from the UK asking for a pint would most likely be served an imperial pint ‒ “purely on the basis it is the standard drinking vessel they have drunk from throughout their whole career in pubs” ‒ other punters were offered the option of “proper or Kiwi”, and told the difference in volume and price.

The Hospitality Association’s Sam MacKinnon has lost count of the number of Brits who have complained about our lack of a standard measure. “Basically, we just call whatever is a large beer a pint.”

He suspects the craft beer “revolution” has played a part in today’s glass size conundrum, along with inflation.

“Obviously the large guys still sell in volume, but we've had a massive increase in prices and the inputs that go into making a glass of beer, plus the overheads for hospitality venues have gone up as well.

“I wouldn't say that there's a massive disparity across venues in terms of what the average pint glass is, but in terms of actually being able to call it a pint at 568ml, then we're not really accurate in that sense.”

Thorndon’s Sprig + Fern is another Wellington pub that sells beer by a 568ml pint. Like MacKinnon, manager Colin Mallon says that is becoming more unusual, largely due to cost and particularly when it comes to higher alcohol by volume beer.

The default 425ml “Wellington pint” is 24% smaller than the imperial pint, “so for craft beer can often work well due to the selling price point”.

“If I go to another bar I’ll order a ‘pint’ of XYZ beer, not expecting a true imperial pint; it’s more a turn of phrase. Generally [I’ll] be happy if the beer I get is around 425ml”.

Across town Panhead, on Tory St, sells its “pints” by that smaller measure, in its own branded glasses. They are known as “tanks”.

“There's definitely a bit of confusion, especially from tourists, as to what a pint is or should be,” general manager Mauricio Bea says. “This is one of the reasons we do not use the word pint to describe our glasses.”

There was also a noticeable difference between how locals and tourists drank, with locals more inclined to buy beer by the larger glass while tourists preferred to taste as many beers as possible, making “halves” a popular choice.

At Bin 44 on Wellington’s waterfront Asahi is sold by the imperial pint, because that brewery’s own branded glasses hold that measure. The bar’s “New Zealand pint” is a 425ml measure. That will set you back $12.50, compared with $14 for 568ml.

Still, pint-sized, for some at least, is better at 425ml. Scientists at Cambridge University are calling on the British Government to stop bars serving beer in pints to reduce alcohol intake and boost the nation’s health.

It follows a trial of a dozen pubs, bars and restaurants carried out last year, during which pints were scrapped and two-thirds of a (imperial) pint became the largest draught beer available.

The researchers, noting standard serves in other countries were smaller (Belgium 250ml, France 330ml, and Germany 500ml), tested the idea that people often think more in portions than portion sizes ‒ going for one beer, one cup of coffee, one cake, rather than specific numbers of millilitres or grams.

The experiment was reported to have met a measure of resistance but resulted in the amount of beer sold, and drunk, falling nearly 10%, which study leads said could contribute towards reducing alcohol consumption across populations and thereby decrease the risk of seven cancers and other diseases.

But perhaps the last word should go to the Hospitality Association’s MacKinnon, who no doubt speaks for many: “I quite like the word pint, even if it’s just become a colloquial term. I still like saying ‘can I have a pint’ even though I’m not ordering a proper pint. If that makes sense?”

Measure for measure

We’re drinking less — beer consumption across all strengths fell by 4.4% to 281 million litres in the year to December 2023, the largest decrease in beer volumes since a fall of 6.6 percent in 2012.

New Zealanders drink, on average, over 2.7 times as much beer than wine, and 2.9 times as much beer than spirits & spirit-based drinks.

There has been 750% increase in the amount of zero-low alcohol beer consumed by Kiwis since 2019.

The New Zealand brewing industry contributes $3.3 billion to the country’s economy annually.

Two thirds of NZ’s approximately 200 breweries are in the North Island.