'It's the Olympics': Restaurateurs thrilled at Michelin's arrival

Thursday, 6 November 2025

The arrival of the culinary equivalent of the Olympics - the Michelin Guide - will change the dining game in New Zealand, restaurateurs say.

“It's the gold medal,” said bistro owner Adam Newell, who received one of the dining guide’s coveted stars when working in London.

It’s the first time the world famous culinary adviser, known for its one to three star rating system, has come to Australasia.

“It’ll change the game,” Newell, who now runs the Union Square Bistro and Bar with his wife Nicola in Martinborough, said.

Next June, when the New Zealand Guide is released, the public will learn whether any of the restaurants inspectors are currently evaluating in Auckland, Christchurch, Wellington and Queenstown have made the cut.

Eateries already being floated as potential star receivers include Otago’s Amisfield and Ahi in central Auckland.

To receive a star, you had to be good at what you did, Newell said, adding the reviewers would be doing research at this moment to learn where the best places to eat were.

The reviewing process was so stringent, it would require several visits over a period of months until a verdict was reached.

This made sure the chefs were being consistent in their excellence, he said. Newell worked in three Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gavroche in London as well as earning a star at Fulham Road Restaurant.

“It means that you've got a clear direction, clear goals, and you've got a clear leader, and you're really consistent every single day.”

The young chefs working would now have something new to aspire to, he said. While New Zealand had awards bodies, this was the next level.

To the Europeans and Americans looking at visiting the country, this would be the thing that convinced them to come and stay here.

Former Masterchef NZ judge and restaurateur Simon Gault agreed, telling The Post that Michelin’s arrival in Aotearoa was “unbelievable” and “absolutely fantastic”.

He didn’t believe it would just benefit hospitality businesses, but tourism operators in general.

“I don't know about you, but when I go away on holiday, I'm just going from one meal to the next, so you're planning things, and there are a lot of people out there like that.

While the “big names” would undoubtedly be poised to secure a Michelin star, Gault believed the brand’s presence in New Zealand would help prop up the “hidden gems” that deserve to be hunted out.

“Not everybody wants to go to a one, two or three Michelin star restaurant - or can afford it,” he said.

“I went to [a restaurant] on Richmond Rd [in Grey Lynn] called Lokanta. It's a Mediterranean style restaurant. What a find … absolutely wonderful food. Now, it's not going to be a three Michelin star restaurant, but if I was travelling to anywhere in the world, I want to know those hidden gems that are just fantastic.”

But Ray McVinnie, an accomplished chef and food writer who also judged Masterchef NZ alongside Gault, said he was “underwhelmed”.

He told The Post that while Michelin was “a very good measure of very, very fine cooking”, it was usually expensive food not accessible to many people.

“I don't really think that's the greatest thing to be done right at the moment. I'm going to probably get a bit … social democratic about this, and think that it would be far better to be feeding homeless people, or people who can't afford to eat.”

McVinnie, who said he was now “completely out” of the world of high cuisine, described the Michelin star system as “a bit like getting star chefs to do airline food” because “it’s always in business class, and no one ever really gets to taste it”.

He continued: “I just think it might be a little bit anachronistic that sort of Michelin star thing. I mean, we've got the Cuisine hats [rating system]. And, God knows what else.”

Asked whether it might help smaller businesses due to more tourists choosing New Zealand as a destination, McVinnie said if they’re in search of food they’ll probably still head to Asia.

“If I was gonna travel somewhere to eat Michelin star food, which, I mean, I've actually done, I'd go to Hong Kong or Singapore and eat for $30. I mean, come on, it just seems a bit out of touch to me these days.”

However, while “unusual”, McVinnie said it was possible that some lesser known eateries could be awarded a star along with fine dining establishments.

“We have a very, very good and talented hospitality sector here in New Zealand, and they need to be supported as well, because, of course, they've got to make a living too. So, I think it probably will enhance that.”

It’s costing New Zealand $2.5m to lure Michelin to New Zealand for its first year, of which $1.9m comes from the $100 international visitor levy gathered from tourists to the country.

An additional $3.8m from that levy pot will be spent in the two following financial years. It was for this reason that Australia rejected an offer from Michelin to bring its guide across the ditch.

But Gault believed the investment would be paid back “in spades” through visitor numbers.

“I think it'll be a game changer,” he said.

“Definitely, all the chefs and restaurant owners are going to be excited, because if they get a Michelin star or get a good review within the Michelin Guide, that's an international recognition.

“But what I'm excited about is all the people that might suddenly start coming here.”

Tourism New Zealand estimates Michelin's arrival could bring in up to 36,000 more international visitors.

Chef Martin Bosley said he thought the Guide’s arrival was a good thing, although he added he was disappointed Tourism NZ paid $6 million to bring them here, instead of supporting the country’s own culinary star system: Cuisine Magazine.

Cuisine Magazine’s “hats” were part of how New Zealand’s high quality of hospitality could be measured, he said - however, Tourism NZ had failed to contribute funds towards it over the past two decades.

“We've got great restaurants here. We've been saying for years that one of our best exports is our reputation for our food. Tourism hasn't really paid enough attention to that.

“I'm pleased that they're finally looking at [us].”

Steve Logan, owner of Wellington restaurant Logan Brown, said the news was fantastic for New Zealand’s food, hospitality and tourism industries.

“Hats off to the government for recognising how important food is to our country: from producing through to retailing, hospitality and exporting,” he said.

Fine dining was high on the list of experiences top end tourists wanted to enjoy while travelling the country, so having a few Michelin-starred restaurants would definitely encourage more to visit.

“I think the judges will be surprised by the breadth of good eateries across the country. They will be flabbergasted at how little it costs them to dine here, compared to most of the world.”