How the trope of the ‘genius chef’ became hospitality’s worst excuse
Sunday, 10 May 2026
Long before many of us ever set foot in a professional kitchen, we knew what a chef looked like.
He was wild-eyed and vaguely unhinged, barking nonsense and flinging food while those around him ducked for cover.
He was, of course, the Muppets’ Swedish Chef and just as likely to be chased by his ingredients as he was to cook them. He was absurd, exaggerated, and taught us early and effectively that a chef’s volatility wasn’t just normal but entertaining.
Many decades on, the TV setting has changed but the script remains eerily familiar.
Read more:
‘No excuse’: Industry and broadcasters turn back on star Amisfield chef
A chef’s downfall: Vaughan Mabee quits Amisfield, apologises, after alleged assault
Renowned head chef Vaughan Mabee suddenly quits Arrowtown restaurant Amisfield after 15 years
The trope of the tortured culinary genius has spawned entertainment empires as humiliation became prime-time viewing. Celebrity chefs have transformed toxicity into culinary currency: proof not of poor behaviour but the pursuit of excellence.
And that, industry figures say, is still being wielded as an excuse.
On Sunday Vaughan Mabee, former top chef at Amisfield restaurant in Arrowtown, “unreservedly apologised” to former staff and colleagues for “my inappropriate behaviour to them or any inconsiderate comments made … I am truly sorry for any harm or offence [caused]”.
“This industry I gave my heart and soul to has changed dramatically over the past 20 years ‒ for the better ‒ and many of us older chefs have had long roads adjusting.”
The string of complaints about Mabee make a long list. The high profile chef had been on a final warning following two historical complaints about his conduct when he resigned from Amisfield in February.
That followed an investigation after an alleged assault of a colleague at a Queenstown nightclub - an incident that happened, he said in his statement, when he was inebriated.
“While [it] was terrible for many reasons, it led me down a road of introspection and growth. This road has taken me to a place where I now realise how unfair and unacceptable some of my behaviour was, and now I want only to strive to become that better person I know I once was and will be again.”
Other allegations about Mabee include alcohol abuse, lewd comments to colleagues and, at times, physical aggression. Several formal complaints were made over the past decade, The Press reported, including by former White Tie Catering director Katie Duncan who was shocked by his behaviour during a 2020 industry function.
She alleged he called his staff “retards and fags” and made a lewd comment about a staff member whose husband had just died.
Restaurant owner John Darby issued a statement on Wednesday, saying he misjudged Mabee’s “ability to lead our kitchen responsibly.
“I deeply regret that any staff felt unable to speak up sooner. I do not condone Vaughan's behaviour and the culture he created. I hear those who have come forward and regret that our support was not more responsive in the past.”
He said Mabee was a long-time employee who he had supported onto the world stage, “but I misjudged his ability to lead our kitchen responsibly”.
“ No amount of talent is an excuse for poor behaviour,” said Darby.
He reiterated that all formal employee complaints were fully investigated and formal disciplinary action taken. “Following a further complaint late last year, Vaughan was removed from the workplace and we accepted his resignation.”
Amisfield chief executive Simon Toneycliffe also released a statement, saying the business was committed to overhauling its culture.
“We are implementing a strengthened leadership structure across both the kitchen and front-of-house to ensure clearer accountability, better communication, and consistent standards of behaviour.
“Since stepping into this role, it became clear that meaningful change was required. While some of the workplace issues pre-dated my tenure, addressing them and ensuring we create the environment our people deserve is my responsibility.”
But now the wider hospitality industry is also speaking up - condemning abusers and the toxic culture across the industry they say have allowed them to flourish.
Amber Rose is a chef, food writer and owner of Live Wild NZ, and has worked on film sets, television shows, as well as in commercial and private kitchens.
She knows that excellence is drawn out of people who feel inspired, safe, and valued - “not forced through fear.”
Rose believes that all too often “highly talented but very dysfunctional, and even predatory” people have been allowed to get away with abusive behaviour, partly due to the tortured-genius trope that still exists in some creative industries.
“There are eco-systems that hold these people in power simply because they benefit from it.
Abuse never exists in isolation, she says, but is “upheld by cultures that tolerate it, protect it, and quietly benefit from it.
“Which is why bringing this into the light matters. Because no dish, no reputation, no restaurant is worth the erosion of someone’s safety, dignity, or mental health. Ever.”
Angela Clifford, chief executive of food and hospitality collective Eat NZ, believes that culinary awards, and the systems that dish them out, should also be scrutinised.
“Because when all you judge is what comes out as a result, and frame that as hospitality, then you allow everything that sits behind it to be disregarded.”
She says that what also needs to be included in any accolade or award, are factors such as whether suppliers are paid and how staff are treated.
“But it’s not. New Zealand has just spent $6m to bring Michelin to this country over the next three years yet there’s nothing in that system that prevents them from rewarding terrible behaviour.”
Eat NZ, meanwhile, is trying to do the opposite through the social media campaign both highlighting kitchens that support women to thrive and focusing on their achievements.
“We want to be very clear… Any kitchen we’re made aware of that has a toxic culture will not be platformed, promoted or supported by our organisation.”
While Clifford says it’s crucial that “women be centred in any conversation” following the past week’s news, it’s more important than ever that male chefs speak up too.
“And one has today” she says on Wednesday, “…to be fair a few have, but none of his level or ilk so far.”
Shaun Clouston, executive chef at Wellington’s renowned Logan Brown, is who she’s referring to, while he describes his social media post as “a bit of a rant”.
“In light of recent events involving reported abuse, sexual misconduct, and deeply misogynistic behaviour within our industry, I feel the need to say something,” he wrote.
“I’ve been cooking and part of the hospitality family for nearly 35 years. In that time I’ve seen plenty of long hours, pressure, egos and behaviour that would never be tolerated elsewhere. But nothing like this.”
Speaking to The Sunday Star-Times, Clouston reiterated other points from his post, including how “pressure is never an excuse for abuse” and that the industry he knows and loves is about “nurturing and training people.
“The worst part is the sponsorship, awards and accolades - abusive behaviour doesn’t happen everywhere but when it does, people do know about it. There’s a rumour mill and NZ is a small place.”
Clouston says he’s speaking in the hope that other male chefs follow suit in decrying the culture of abuse and silence that plagues a small part of their industry.
“I know its not everyone, but it’s time someone started calling those people out.”
And for those people, he’s issuing a warning.
“You will be found out, it’s going to happen. I’m sticking my head above the parapets because I haven’t got any skeletons in my closet. Have you?”.
Amisfield has now been dropped from Cuisine magazine’s esteemed food guide, while TVNZ is assessing whether to pull a reality show featuring Mabee from its catalogue.
A Taste of Art was produced by an independent production company and aired over February and March.
Mabee, who appears as a judge in all seven instalments, is described in the pilot episode as a “superstar chef” who “catapulted Amisfield into the world’s best list”
“He is ranked 44th best chef in the world and is one of the most innovative culinary minds of our generation.”
Amisfield was awarded Restaurant of the Year and the highest rating, three hats, at the 2025 Cuisine Good Food Awards.
It was also named Restaurant of the Year in 2020, 2021, 2022 and 2023, while Mabee won the the Innovation Award twice and was the 2019 Chef of the Year.