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Our Kiwi Home: Hagley Park - the early years

Saturday, 16 November 2024

A Press staff picnic in Christchurch’s Hagley Park, date unknown.
A Press staff picnic in Christchurch’s Hagley Park, date unknown.

Former Cantabrian Mark Walton, an internationally-recognised clarinettist and saxophonist, has an enduring fascination with NZ history and writes regularly about his home country.

Our Hagley Park takes its name from the country seat of Lord Lyttelton - chairman of the Canterbury Association that established Christchurch. His 18th century park in Worcestershire was in its day considered to be one of England’s most beautiful landscape gardens.

Do you have a suggestion for an Our Kiwi Home column? Email mark.walton@outreachmusic.com.au

Lord Lyttelton, right, the first chairman of the Canterbury Association, which founded Canterbury, and Mr HS Selfe, the association
Lord Lyttelton, right, the first chairman of the Canterbury Association, which founded Canterbury, and Mr HS Selfe, the association's legal adviser, circa 1868.

The Canterbury Association instructed its surveyors to select a suitable block, about 405 hectares, for the new settlement. There were, as you’d expect, differing views as to where exactly this land should be. One surveyor protested and said the site chosen was too swampy. He considered the land where Woolston now sits to be much better for the centre of town.

Staggeringly out of the 405ha, about 202ha was set aside as a public park. It has been suggested the Deans brothers asked for the town to not be too close to their property at Riccarton Bush, however the timeline doesn’t fit with this theory.

Hagley Park was placed on the west side of town, and it first appeared on a map dated 1850.

The earliest view of Christchurch - a sketch made on June 16, 1851, by Dr AC Barker.
The earliest view of Christchurch - a sketch made on June 16, 1851, by Dr AC Barker.

In 1855, when the new Provincial Government took over the role of the Canterbury Association, a law was passed that said “Hagley Park shall be reserved forever as a public park, and shall be open for the recreation and enjoyment of the public”. Those words have been requoted many times over the decades as requests came in for roads and railway lines to encroach onto the park.

Early settlers found the expanse that is now Hagley Park “unprepossessing in appearance”. The land was scrubby, swampy and desolate, criss-crossed by shingle creeks draining into the Ōtākaro Avon River.

The settlers began planting all manner of trees that have grown to make the park the green beating heart of Christchurch. There are now more than 3000 trees in Hagley Park.

This area in now part of Hagley Park, but in 1862 it was part of Armagh St, looking west to Riccarton Bush.
This area in now part of Hagley Park, but in 1862 it was part of Armagh St, looking west to Riccarton Bush.

By 1855, the 4ha belonging to Christ’s College had already been handed over to the college in exchange for land it owned in the centre of Cathedral Square. In 1863, the Provincial Council also transferred 2ha of the park for the new hospital.

In 1863, a section was chosen for the Christchurch Botanic Gardens and on July 9 an English oak was planted to commemorate the marriage of Prince Albert and Princess Alexandra of Denmark.

There is so much to be proud of when we consider the foresight our early settlers showed in designating such a large portion of land to make up Hagley Park. Sadly however, there is a darker side to the story that we cannot ignore.

Looking down Christchurch’s High St, from BNZ corner, in 1868.
Looking down Christchurch’s High St, from BNZ corner, in 1868.

At Akaroa on June 12, 1848, an agreement signed between Ngāi Tahu and the Crown’s representative, Henry Kemp, ensured reserves of land and food-gathering places were supposed to be kept by Māori. Ngāi Tahu was paid £2000 and assured large reserves would be returned when surveying was complete. However, when Walter Mantell, the land purchaser commissioner, mapped out the land in 1848, he deliberately cut down the promised reserves, allowing less than 1.6ha per person rather than the promised 4ha. He also kept back some of Ngāi Tahu’s cultivated land and food-gathering places.

In 1862, the part of Hagley Park by Carlton Mill Bridge, known as Little Hagley Park, was set aside for Māori to use as a gathering and resting place. In 1868, 150 Māori camped there while arguing their claims in the Native Land Court. Not only were they unsuccessful, but four years later the Provincial Government suggested they should exchange Little Hagley Park for land elsewhere. They agreed, but there is no record of land being given in compensation.

A temporary building in Hagley Park for the New Zealand International Exhibition, 1882.
A temporary building in Hagley Park for the New Zealand International Exhibition, 1882.

Now, I know like me, you will want to know about the major Hagley Park stories hitting The Press back in the 1860s, so I have read through nearly 1000 articles that mention Hagley Park and selected some that caught my attention.

From The Press, August 25, 1862, there was a notice from Thos. W, Maude, provincial secretary, informing the public that “Hagley Park had been let to a Mr Charles Wright for enclosure, and that stock cannot now be allowed to depasture thereon. Persons having stock at large in the park after this notice will be liable to be treated as trespassers.” Having read this, I did wonder back in 1862 if there was ever any confusion with the words depasture and departure.

If your distant relatives went for a peaceful perambulation about midday May 24, 1863, their nerves would have been jangled by the sound of the volunteers firing a feu de joie followed by three cheers in honour of the Majesty’s birthday. If that wasn’t enough for one day, the volunteers proceeded to shoot for the prizes at ranges of 300, 400, and 500 yards. For those not lucky enough to have French lessons from Mr Jane at Shirley Boys’ High, a feu de joie is a rifle salute by soldiers on a ceremonial occasion. Each soldier fires in succession along the ranks to make a continuous sound.

On June 30, 1863, there was a reward from the Provincial Government to anyone who provided information resulting in a conviction for whoever stole from the nursery grounds at Hagley Park and the garden at the Government Buildings. The thief took two ornamental cypresses, one Chinese arbor-vitae and two upright cypresses. Now, not wanting to worry you unnecessarily, but if you have mature examples of these plants in your garden don’t rule out the possibility of a knock on your door and being asked some probing questions.

The New Zealand International Exhibition Building in Hagley Park, 1906.
The New Zealand International Exhibition Building in Hagley Park, 1906.

On February 1, 1864, The Press announced the arrival of the world-famed All-England Eleven, who were to play a three-day match on Hagley Park the following Saturday. If the excitement of this was not enough, The Press also announced the Canterbury Volunteers Brass Band would be on the ground each day under the direction of bandmaster Mr R W Kohler.

Interestingly this was actually the second All-England Eleven tour to New Zealand, the first being 1861-62.

Directly under this article was this advertisement, which raises the question of what happens to the unlucky cricketers who weren’t quick enough off their marks?

Looking from Cathedral Square across the empty site of the future Post Office to the Bank of NSW in Hereford St (the white building), in 1867.
Looking from Cathedral Square across the empty site of the future Post Office to the Bank of NSW in Hereford St (the white building), in 1867.

“Cricket Cricket Cricket

“The undersigned particularly requests those parties requiring Cricket Boots or Shoes for the above match to leave their orders immediately as only a limited quantity of the Patent Cricket Spikes could be procured.

“J Suckling, Cashel St, Christchurch”

This photo, dated about 1865, shows the Canterbury Provincial Building in the final stage of being completed.
This photo, dated about 1865, shows the Canterbury Provincial Building in the final stage of being completed.

A few days later on February 15, a reaping match was organised by the Agricultural and Pastoral Association. It was open to all in Canterbury and to all descriptions of machines. Prizes were generous with £5 for first, £3 second and £2 for third. The entrance fee was £1, so I think this is a fine early example of user pays.

The Governor, Lord Plunket, arrives to open the 1906 International Exhibition in Hagley Park.
The Governor, Lord Plunket, arrives to open the 1906 International Exhibition in Hagley Park.

For those of you who still considering the £10 reward for dobbing in a shrub thief, you might be surprised by the rather measly reward offered on June 29, 1864: £1 for a light red and white bull, supposedly branded with red paint on shoulder.

June 12, 1865, would have been a day shopkeeper Mr McLellan would never forget.

Hagley Park has been the scene of many celebrations and events over the decades - here The All Blacks Rugby World Cup parade reaches the park in February 2011.
Hagley Park has been the scene of many celebrations and events over the decades - here The All Blacks Rugby World Cup parade reaches the park in February 2011.

“Yesterday morning, as Mr Lloyd, a carpenter, was walking in the Hagley Park, he found a new pair of boots, which induced him to make a further search, and in a ditch, he discovered a bag full of boots and shoes. The property has been identified by Mr McLellan as part of that taken from his store in Oxford Tce when broken into last week.”

I was hoping to read that Mr Lloyd was subsequently presented with a new stylish pair of brogues as a thank you for his detective work, but sadly we will never know.

Dozens of lanterns brighten up Hagley Park in February 2017 as part of Chinese New Year celebrations.
Dozens of lanterns brighten up Hagley Park in February 2017 as part of Chinese New Year celebrations.

Returning to the theme of cricket, this sports report on November 18, 1864, had me intrigued and brought home that at that time in Christchurch there couldn’t have been a wide choice of teams to play each other.

“The match between the married and single players of the province was played on the Hagley Park ground on Wednesday and resulted in the defeat of the former by 11 wickets. The play was not remarkable for excellence. Mr Young showed that practice is only necessary to make him one of our strongest bats. Messrs McDonnell, Moore, and Harley played well for their scores. The hitting of the first names is free, and of right sort. For the married, Mr Dickenson bowled as well as usual; the others were rather wild.”

Now I’m really curious to know if any of the young men in the Singles side put their marriage plans on hold for the sake of their team, or maybe they played the match and then raced around to St Michaels on Oxford Tce for a late exchanging of vows?

A stroll under Hagley Park
A stroll under Hagley Park's spring cherry blossoms.

On December 27, 1864, there was a clearance sale to rival all clearance sales, and this is possibly the first example of a post-Christmas sale in Christchurch. On offer were predictable items like two draught horses and a bay mare called Polly. There were a range of carts including a carcass cart, but what caught my curiosity was a Crosskill’s patent clod-crusher, which after Googling, I realise my life would be much more complete if I owned one. Listed under sundries was one strong useful table and a quantity of corned beef in small casks, ditto good bacon and hams. Also, up for grabs was the lease of 10ha of Hagley Park.

A cyclist bikes through mist as it rises up from the ground in Hagley Park a day after heavy rain.
A cyclist bikes through mist as it rises up from the ground in Hagley Park a day after heavy rain.

Even back on January 25, 1867, Henry Allard and William Webb were charged with bathing in the Avon during prohibited hours. They admitted the charge, and the resident magistrate said as this was their first offence he should dismiss them, at the same time warning them.

If Henry or William were your relatives, please don’t take this too badly as I’m quite sure, in the course of time that there will be others who needed to cool off in the Avon.

A memorial service for the 51 people killed in the March 2019 terror attack was held in Hagley Park a week later.
A memorial service for the 51 people killed in the March 2019 terror attack was held in Hagley Park a week later.

More angst in the letters to the editor on March 19, 1868, but this time about a proposed cattle market in Hagley Park.

“Sir, - I have learned with some surprise that our town councillors contemplate applying to the Provincial Council for permission to enclose 14 acres (6ha) of Hagley Park, for the purpose of making a cattle market. I do trust that the inhabitants of Christchurch will unanimously protest against such a grant being made before it is too late. Not only is the proposal objectionable as opening the door to future misappropriation, but the establishment of a cattle market in the immediate vicinity of the park, would destroy all its value as a place of recreation for the people…

“Hoping sir, that The Press will use its powerful influence to prevent such an unwarrantable infringement upon the rights of the public. I remain, sir your obedient servant, A Townsman.”

It wasn’t all grim news because on March 28, 1868, a public holiday was declared, and this is the first mention I could find of fireworks in Hagley Park.

“On Monday next, the citizens of Christchurch and the surrounding neighbourhood will make a general rejoicing at the narrow escape of Prince Alfred from the blow aimed at him by an assassin.

“Great preparations are being made for the occasion. An open-air meeting will be held in Latimer Square, at which the Superintendent, the members of the Government and the leading citizens will be on stage. The national anthem will be sung and led by the Tonic Sol-Fa Society. After, there will be a display of fireworks in Hagley Park.”

Around this time, there was a very divisive issue concerning Hagley Park: the proposed construction of a road from Armagh St through the park to connect with Riccarton Rd. On November 18, 1868, a public meeting, convened by the mayor in compliance with a requisition signed by 54 persons was held in the Town Hall to consider a “proposition for carrying a public road through Hagley Park”. Between 350 and 400 people were in the hall and on the platform were several important local gentlemen and the mayor occupied the chair.

The chairman said the meeting was aware a petition signed by about 300 had been presented to his honor, the superintendent and executive council in favour of making a road, and he was informed a counter petition, which had received some 400 signatures, was about to be presented. The matter had, however, been before the public again and again, and the proposition for a road had always been rejected both by the public and the Provincial Council.

Mr Wilson called upon Mr W Ollivier to move the first resolution. Mr Ollivier explained Hagley Park formed part of the town reserves, about 332ha, made by the promoters of the Canterbury Association. Mr Ollivier said it must be remembered that the founders of Canterbury looked further afield than perhaps we did – they looked forward to the time when Christchurch would be as densely populated as the cities of the old country, and when the magnificent reserve would be of vital importance to the health and comfort of the people of Christchurch. They had resolved that Hagley Park “shall be reserved forever as a public park and shall be open for the recreation and enjoyment of the public”.

This road wrangle went on for some time, but those magical words written by our city planners meant only cyclists, joggers and walkers can cut through the park to Riccarton Rd.

Then along came another challenge, this time from the railway. Here is a report from the March 16, 1870, Provincial Council meeting:

“The Northern Railway is decidedly unlucky. It seems fated to be one of those things that are always going to be done … and the council has now been summoned for a special session chiefly to give the Government the necessary powers for proceeding with it without delay. Having agreed two years back that the railway should be made, the council found themselves all abroad on the next question - which way it should go.

“The only point definitely settled was that the railway should not go through Hagley Park. The Government proposed to take it from Addington station inside the western boundary of the Park, crossing the Avon near the Fendalton Bridge… An amendment, striking out the words referring to Hagley Park, was carried without division.”

Hagley Park has watched our city grow and mature and, whatever tragedies Christchurch has had to endure, our park is silently waiting to offer us all great comfort.