Bestsellers: The $98 'glorified pie' keeps diners coming back

Thursday, 15 May 2025

Thyme Square Restaurant, 259 Grey Street, Hamilton East, Hamilton

At Thyme, Hamilton’s home of intimate dining, the star of the show arrives wrapped in pastry, cloaked in a whisper of smoke, and carved with care: the Beef Wellington.

“We’ve had nights where half the restaurant is ordering Beef Wellington,” says chef-owner Logan Murray. “It’s the dish that people have been told to come here for.”

And it’s easy to see why. Originally introduced as a training tool for new kitchen hands, the dish has since doubled in size - now a generous 300-350g of eye fillet, designed for sharing or satisfying the Waikato’s hungriest patrons.

“If we’ve got a hungry farmer who likes to eat, the dish really fills them up,” says Murray. “They love it.”

Tell us about your bestseller

Beef Wellington.

Thyme’s Beef Wellington is served with a Miso Beurre Blanc - a bold fusion of French and Japanese cuisine.

“We use beef stock, black garlic, and miso to create umami depth,” says Murray.

The eye fillet is cured for 12 hours, lightly smoked, and wrapped in mushroom duxelles and prosciutto - “which doesn’t go soggy like bacon,” he notes.

Traditional spinach is left out, allowing a miso beurre blanc - a “dirty beurre blanc” - to shine.

“People lick the plate. It’s very rare we don’t see finger marks.”

When it briefly left the menu, backlash was swift. “We even got a bad review,” Murray said.

Why do you think it is so appealing?

“It’s a glorified pie - and Kiwis can’t resist a good pie.”

Who’s attracted to them?

“Anyone who loves meat loves this dish,” Murray said.

While locals come back for the dish, Murray noted many tourists walk in for it too.

How much do they cost?

$98 for one, or $50 each when shared.

What’s your favourite item on the menu?

The pork ribs.

More about Logan and Thyme

While the Wellington is the crowd-puller, the soul of Thyme lies in something subtler: the “Trust the Chef” experience.

Offered in two, three, or five courses, this curated journey makes up about 70% of all orders.

“When I moved into this place, I was like, that’s gonna be my big feature,” says Murray.

Inspired by his time dining at Amisfield while training in Arrowtown, the concept began as a gamble and grew into a signature. “There was quite a bit of pushback at first… for a lot of people it was too foreign.”

Now, it’s what regulars return for - letting Murray guide the meal from start to finish.

“When I know the chef's good, I just want to have what they cook the best,” he says.

Murray’s upbringing - raised in Hamilton by a single mother of four - shaped his approach to food and hospitality. “Nothing goes to waste in our household,” he says. “If something comes back on the plate regularly, we do something about that.”

He doesn’t claim the fine dining label. “My goal with this restaurant is the pure essence of hospitality, making people feel good by the time they leave.”

With only 30 seats, Thyme isn’t built for turnover, but for time well spent.

“Food brings people together,” Murray says. “It doesn’t matter what the occasion is - food can solve it.”